How to Grow Garlic

Growing guide

Overview

Garlic is a fall-planted bulb that you grow from individual cloves, and it’s one of the easiest crops for a beginner. You plant it in autumn, it overwinters, and you harvest full bulbs the following summer. It needs full sun, well-drained soil, and moderate water — that’s about it.

Soil & planting prep

Garlic grows best in loose, loamy or sandy soil that drains well; heavy clay causes bulbs to rot. Aim for a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Work in compost before planting, then set cloves 5 cm (2 in) deep and 15 cm (6 in) apart in rows 20–30 cm (8–12 in) apart.

When to plant

Plant garlic in fall, not spring — the bulbs need a cold period to form properly. Aim for 4–6 weeks before your first expected hard frost, which usually means October in most of the US and Canada. In zones 3–5, plant late September to mid-October; in warmer zones 7–9, you can plant as late as November or early December. The goal is for roots to establish but for top growth not to emerge before winter.

How to plant

1. Break a garlic bulb into individual cloves just before planting — don’t separate them weeks ahead, as they dry out.
2. Choose the largest, firmest cloves from the outside of the bulb; small inner cloves produce small bulbs.
3. Plant each clove pointy-end up, 5 cm (2 in) deep, 15 cm (6 in) apart, in full sun.
4. Backfill with soil and water gently to settle the cloves.
5. Apply a 10–15 cm (4–6 in) layer of straw or shredded leaves as mulch after the ground freezes, or right after planting in cold zones.

5 common mistakes to avoid

• Planting garlic in spring instead of fall — without the winter cold period, bulbs stay small and often don’t split into cloves; plant in October (or 4–6 weeks before hard frost) for full-size bulbs.
• Planting cloves upside down or sideways — the pointy end must face up, or the shoot has to grow around the clove and the bulb is deformed; look for the pointed tip and set it upward.
• Watering too much in heavy soil — garlic rots easily in soggy ground; if your soil is clay, plant in raised beds or amend with compost so water drains within a few hours.
• Letting weeds take over in spring — garlic is a weak competitor and weeds steal light and nutrients; hand-pull or shallow hoe regularly, especially in April and May.
• Cutting the scapes too late or not at all — hardneck garlic sends up a flower stalk (scape) that reduces bulb size if left on; snap or cut scapes off when they curl, usually in early summer.

Harvesting & storage

Harvest when the lower leaves turn brown and dry but the top 3–4 leaves are still green — usually 240–270 days after planting, in mid-to-late summer. Loosen the soil with a fork and lift the bulbs; don’t pull by the stem or you’ll break the neck. Cure them in a warm, dry, airy place for 2–3 weeks, then store in a cool, dark spot.

Companion planting

Good companions for garlic include tomatoes, peppers, and fruit trees, as garlic can help repel some pests. Avoid planting garlic near beans, peas, or other legumes — garlic can stunt their growth.

Growing in containers

Garlic grows well in containers. Use a pot at least 5 gallons (about 19 liters) with drainage holes, plant cloves 5 cm (2 in) deep and 10–15 cm (4–6 in) apart, and keep it outdoors through winter in zones 3–9; mulch the surface to protect the bulbs from freeze-thaw cycles.

Pro tips

Plant cloves in fall (October) pointy-end up 5cm deep 15cm apart. Mulch for winter. Harvest when lower leaves brown. Cure in a warm dry place for 2-3 weeks for long storage.