How to Grow Fig

Growing guide

Overview

Fig is a drought-tolerant perennial fruit tree grown for its sweet, soft fruit and broad lobed leaves. It thrives in warm, sunny spots with well-drained soil and performs well in large containers, which allows growers in colder zones to move it indoors for winter.

Soil & planting prep

Figs do best in loamy or sandy, well-drained soil; avoid heavy clay or low spots that hold water. A pH around 6.0–6.8 is ideal, but figs are adaptable. Space in-ground trees about 10–15 feet apart and plant at the same depth as the nursery container, never deeper.

When to plant

Plant figs in spring after your last frost date, once the soil has warmed and frost danger is fully past. Because figs are not frost-tolerant, fall planting is not recommended in cold zones. Container figs can go outside after the last frost and must return indoors before fall frost.

How to plant

1. Choose a full-sun site with well-drained soil; in Zones 7–8, a south-facing wall provides extra heat and wind protection.
2. Dig a hole about twice as wide as the root ball and the same depth as the container.
3. Set the fig in the hole at the same depth it was growing, spread the roots gently, and backfill with native soil without packing it tightly.
4. Water deeply right after planting to settle soil around the roots, then let the soil begin to dry before the next watering.
5. Apply mulch around the root zone to retain moisture, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.

5 common mistakes to avoid

• Planting figs in heavy, poorly drained soil or a low wet spot causes root rot and winter dieback; choose sandy or loamy soil, or plant in a raised bed or container.
• Keeping established fig roots constantly wet with frequent lawn-style irrigation leads to soggy roots, bland fruit, and disease; let the top few inches of soil dry out before watering again.
• Overfeeding figs with high-nitrogen fertilizer pushes leafy growth at the expense of fruit and creates tender late growth that winter damages; skip the fertilizer unless a soil test shows a clear deficiency.
• Hard pruning in winter removes too much fruiting wood and disrupts the main crop; figs fruit on new wood, so prune only dead, damaged, or crowded branches lightly in late winter.
• Picking figs too early, while they are firm and green, gives hard, flavorless fruit because figs do not ripen off the tree; wait until the fruit softens, droops at the neck, and may show a fine crack.
• Leaving a container-grown fig outdoors through freezing weather kills or severely damages the roots; in cold zones, move the dormant container into an unheated garage or protected cold room before hard frost.

Harvesting & storage

Figs are ready when the fruit softens, droops at the neck, and often develops a small crack or bead of sap at the eye; color varies by variety. Harvest by bending the stem until the fruit separates, wearing gloves if the sap irritates your skin. Eat fresh or store ripe figs in the refrigerator for only 2–3 days.

Companion planting

Low-growing herbs such as thyme or oregano can share the sunny, dry root zone around figs. Avoid planting figs close to large trees, hedges, or aggressive vines that compete for water and root space.

Growing in containers

Figs grow well in a container of at least 15 gallons with a well-drained potting mix, but container plants dry out faster and need more frequent checking than in-ground trees. In Zones below 7a, move the dormant container into an unheated garage or cold room for winter protection.

Pro tips

In Zone 7-8 plant against a south-facing wall for heat and wind protection. In cold zones grow in containers and bring indoors for winter. Figs fruit on new wood — minimal pruning needed.