How to Grow Apricot

Growing guide

Overview

Apricot is a small, self-fertile stone fruit tree that produces fragrant, golden fruit in early summer. Growers love it for its early bloom and sweet, soft fruit, but it needs full sun, well-drained soil, and protection from late frosts. It is hardy in zones 4a–9a and typically begins bearing 2–5 years after planting.

Soil & planting prep

Apricots need loamy, well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Plant them at the same depth they grew in the nursery, spaced 15–20 feet apart for standard trees or 8–10 feet for dwarf types. If your soil is heavy clay, amend it with compost and plant on a slight mound to improve drainage.

When to plant

Plant bare-root apricot trees in late winter or early spring, about 4–6 weeks before your last frost date, while they are still dormant. Container-grown trees can go in the ground anytime from early spring to early fall, but avoid planting during heat waves. Do not plant in fall in cold climates; young trees need the full growing season to establish before winter.

How to plant

1. Choose a site in full sun with well-drained soil, ideally against a south- or west-facing wall for extra warmth and frost protection.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep, so the graft union sits 2–3 inches above the soil line.
3. Set the tree in the hole, spread the roots, and backfill with native soil, firming gently to remove air pockets.
4. Water thoroughly, then mulch with 2–3 inches of compost or bark, keeping mulch 3 inches away from the trunk.
5. Prune the newly planted tree to 24–30 inches tall to encourage branching, and stake if needed in windy sites.

5 common mistakes to avoid

• Planting in a low spot where cold air settles, which causes the early blooms to be killed by late frosts; always plant on a slope or against a warm wall.
• Overwatering or planting in poorly drained soil, which leads to root rot and yellowing leaves; let the soil dry slightly between waterings and ensure drainage.
• Failing to thin the fruit, which results in small, crowded apricots and broken branches; thin to 3–4 inches apart when fruits are marble-sized.
• Pruning in winter or wet weather, which invites silver leaf and bacterial canker; prune in dry, late spring or early summer instead.
• Applying too much nitrogen fertilizer, which pushes leafy growth at the expense of fruit and makes the tree more susceptible to pests; use a balanced fertilizer only if growth is weak.

Harvesting & storage

Apricots are ready when they are fully colored, soft to the touch, and easily pull from the branch with a gentle twist. Harvest in the cool of the morning and handle gently, as the fruit bruises easily. Store at room temperature for a day or two to ripen further, or refrigerate for up to a week; for longer storage, freeze or dry the fruit.

Companion planting

Good companions for apricots include chives, garlic, and marigolds, which can help repel pests. Avoid planting near nightshades like tomatoes and potatoes, as they share soil-borne diseases.

Growing in containers

Apricots are not well-suited to containers because they develop a deep taproot and need ample space; if you must, use a 20-gallon pot with a dwarf variety, but yields will be limited and the tree will require frequent watering and root pruning.

Pro tips

Plant in well-drained soil in full sun, ideally against a warm wall. Thin fruit heavily for size. Harvest when soft and fragrant; apricots ripen fast.